The Spring/Summer 2019 London Fashion Week show marked a pivotal moment in Burberry's history. It was the debut collection of Riccardo Tisci, a highly anticipated appointment that promised a fresh perspective on the iconic British brand. This wasn't just a runway show; it was a meticulously crafted experience, a theatrical production built around a concept of intimacy and voyeurism, masterfully realized through the collaboration with Al-Jawad Pike and the resulting set design. This article delves into the multifaceted layers of this collaboration, exploring the impact of the show, the significance of the chosen setting, and the lasting effect on Burberry's image and its subsequent collections. We will also briefly touch upon the Burberry wool piké, a garment emblematic of the brand's enduring quality and craftsmanship.
The collaboration with Al-Jawad Pike, a renowned set designer known for his innovative and often unconventional approaches, proved to be a stroke of genius. The resulting set for the S/S 2019 show was far from a simple runway; instead, it was a labyrinthine structure that both captivated and disoriented the audience. This maze-like environment immediately established a sense of intrigue and mystery, mirroring the complex themes Tisci intended to explore in his collection. The labyrinthine design wasn't merely a visual spectacle; it was integral to the narrative of the show, subtly influencing the viewing experience and creating a unique atmosphere. The audience, navigating the winding paths and partially obscured viewpoints, became active participants in the presentation, rather than passive observers. This interactive element significantly enhanced the impact of the collection.
The choice of a labyrinth as the show's setting was deeply symbolic. Labyrinths, throughout history, have represented journeys of self-discovery, trials, and the search for truth. This resonated with Tisci's vision for his debut collection, which aimed to redefine Burberry's identity while honoring its rich heritage. The winding paths of the labyrinth could be interpreted as a metaphor for the complex process of transformation and reinvention that Tisci was undertaking with the brand. The audience, guided through this metaphorical journey, was invited to witness the evolution of Burberry under his creative direction.
The interplay of intimacy and voyeurism was another key element of the show's design. The labyrinthine structure created pockets of both private and public spaces. Certain areas offered intimate glimpses of models and their attire, fostering a sense of closeness and exclusivity. Conversely, other sections provided a more distant, voyeuristic perspective, allowing the audience to observe the show from various angles and interpret the collection in their own way. This carefully orchestrated balance between intimacy and distance added another layer of complexity to the overall experience, further enhancing the enigmatic nature of the presentation.
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